Posts filed under The great wide open

A hike on the East Coast - Franconia Ridge

Adventure Tuesday

Franconia Ridge

Last year we finally did another long hike on the east coast. The previous year we had done a pretty intense hike in the Adirondacks, and we’d been craving another one for quite some time. This time we drove to Woodstock New Hampshire and had planned to hike Franconia Ridge.

The White Mountains, but in New Hampshire

Franconia Ridge is a mountain ridge that belongs to the White Mountains. Not too surprisingly there are more mountains than the Alaskan that has the iconic name of White Mountains. This hike is very popular, and when we arrived at the parking lot some minutes before 9am the parking lot was already full. W dropped me off and he drove to an overflow parking area and took a shuttle bus back to the trailhead.

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Clockwise or counter clockwise?

As with many of the other hikes we have done we try to find those that give you magnificent views. We had read reviews about this hike, and I would say that the majority of them recommended to do the hike counter clockwise. But both W and I found information from others that this hike is best done clockwise. Not to surprisingly almost everyone else did the hike counter clockwise, which resulted in quite a few passing along the trail. Apparently there is a hiking book that clearly states that this hike should be done counter clockwise. But as with everything in life there are many different opinions about what is best and how you should do things. After doing the hike we still agree that the best way is to do it clockwise. In this way you get up in elevation pretty quick and descending is more gradual (although others might argue that the descent is hard on your knees, so maybe it depends on the status of those). The hike is rated as hard and it also says that only experienced hikers should do this 8.6 mile and 3,822 feet of elevation gain hike. You’re not only getting one peak, but three peaks during this hike, all above 4,500 feet. Franconia Ridge is part of the Appalachian trail, and maybe that is one of many reasons it is so heavily trafficked.

September 15th, 2019

We started the hike and started to ascend one of the peaks almost immediately, which also meant pretty steep conditions. Just like the hike in the Adirondacks we had done the year before, we found ourselves climbing over large boulders for big chunks of the hike. The geology on the east coast is incredible. As with other longer hikes, I had to bite my tongue to not stop all the time to take photos, and I ended up leaving the digital camera in the backpack during many sections of the trail. It’s about 2.6 miles to the AMC hut, and there are quite a few people hiking only to that hut. Here you can get a meal and also spend the night if need be.

Mount Lafayette

From the AMC hut we quickly continued upwards, towards Mount Lafayette that sits on an incredible 5,242 feet. It’s about 1.1 miles to the peak, but you will also gain about 985 feet during that mile. Once we eventually reached the top of the mountains we had 360 degree views of the White Mountains. We were incredible lucky with the weather and were treated with both a blue sky and warm weather. We had to pass a lot of people of course, since everyone else tend to do the hike counter clockwise, and just like Algonquin Peak in the Adirondacks you are in a very fragile alpine zone up here so it is important to watch were you step, if you have to step off the trail.

Once you’re up on the ridge you don’t really take note of the second and third peak. Or rather there isn’t a big sensation about reaching those peaks since you already done the tallest of the three. Just like the trail reviews and description says there were a lot of people up on the ridge. I don’t think I have ever seen that many people on a hike before. My photos might not show it, but believe me, there were a lot of people here.

Everyone wants a selfie with the mountains and the view :)

You are constantly hiking up and down and up an down. But knowing that you will eventually get to descend might be the biggest driver to keep moving, well, that and the constant views of course. We came for the view though and we got the views we wanted. It’s hard to not constantly stand and look at the views and and the ridge. Eventually you have to get down too!

After a couple of hours we had finally conquered the last peak and started the long way home, or well down. Along the ridge line it’s windy of course, windy enough to stunt the growth of the trees. We are in the alpine zone, so eventually as you hike up no trees are able to establish.

We walked and walked, and walked. The trees got taller and taller until we were out of the alpine zone and found ourselves in the forest, the forest of many waterfalls. I guess there is a reason why this part of the trail is named Falling Waters Trail. We crossed, creeks, and stumbled through waterfalls, just like the hike up Algonquin Peak. I always feel bad hiking like this, the trail looks as if it’s been eroded by everyone hiking. But I am sure this is due to the fact that the geology is like this here on the east coast.

Per usual the legs were already filled with lactic acid and we were both struggling to keep the energy level up. It is very strenuous to constantly hike on boulders. It felt like an eternity, and as with other long hikes we do there is always this worry that darkness will hit before we are done. Halfway down we met two hikers going up. A little late maybe, and they were hiking in flip flops. Or rather, one of them were carrying a pair of broken flip flops and was hiking barefoot. Sometimes I wonder how people make decisions like that, to hike up a mountain in flip flops? We continued down and I guess the waterfalls saved us from getting too bored along the way.

It took about 5-6 hours to finish this hike, so not as long time we took to do Algonquin Peak. But we were so tired afterwards. Another hike that definitely kicked our butts. We were so lucky that the weather cooperated with us.

Where the fairies are dancing

The fairies are dancing in the field

My mom always used to say: -The fairies are dancing in the field, back then when we were driving towards the summer house and passed the fields with the large pines surrounding them. There and then we used to see them late in the evening and during those endless summer nights. Here I see them while I’m drinking a small cup of coffee in the morning. When I get to the car to drive to work I can see them across the road. On my days off I can walk over there and see them up close, and greet the morning.

Here I am able to watch as nature prepares itself for yet another day. It’s as if you have the front row seat to a show that’s just about to start. I see a deer staring at me before he runs towards the forest. Right there he stops, he hesitates and he look to the right as if he is listening. There are wild animals around here, coyotes, black bears and bobcats. I just saw some scat, from a coyote or maybe the bobcat, I am pretty sure I saw some bear scat too, fresh. Is that what the deer is hesitating about? Within a couple of seconds he is long gone into the forest and I am left alone hesitating myself. I always do that when animals seem frightened by something else, other than me.

A mama black bear has been spotted right here with two cubs, right where my favorite creek is. I still go there, and early in the morning I always think that now, right now I’m gonna run in to her. But it never happens and it probably never will. But you still walk around ready for just about everything and anything.

By the bridge I see two beavers, and so many birds, birds I don’t know the name of yet. The first time we went here we saw a great blue heron, two beavers, a muskrat, a large and probably pretty old snapping turtle, and later that week we saw a snake swimming in the creek. I have never seen a snake swim in a creek before.

It’s something magical about this spot, I don’t know exactly what makes it so special. Maybe the fact that you never know what you will see here? Either way, this is the reason we moved here. The ability to walk out the front door and into this. Into the wild, and never know what will appear around the corner.

When we Hiked through Lamar Valley - Summertime in Yellowstone National Park

Adventure Tuesday

Adventures in Yellowstone

May 25-27th 2014

We had just managed to snag the last available campsite outside Gardiner and went to bed under a clear sky in the Rocky Mountains. The next morning I woke up by a strange noise, something was eating outside the tent, and it brought back memories from a different morning in Alaska when the same thing had happened. As I opened up the tent I was greeted by a bunch of elk. The following years I learned that this area, just up the hill from Gardiner is a prime spot for elk. Other than the noise from the elk it was very quiet around camp. People had been up partying into the wee hours last night, but we had major plans this morning and went to bed early. I was as excited I could possible be as I glanced over Yellowstone National Park while I had my coffee. I could not believe that I finally would get to hike in the mountains in Yellowstone. We were going to have a long day ahead of us, but first we had to get to the park and reserve a backcountry camping spot! These are first come first serve so we didn’t want to risk loosing our plan.

Up until this trip I’d only seen Yellowstone in a blanket of deep snow so I was stoked to finally get to see this beauty dressed in green. It was late May and even though spring is on the way in many places in the US at this point it can be slower here because of the high elevation.

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We’d been checking a couple of different short routes we could do, but after having to remove our top choice due to a late spring and too much water (that hike had a stream crossing without a bridge) we dialed in on a fairly decent hike into the Lamar Valley. If you’ve followed my blog for a while you have probably seen Lamar Valley, a huge valley blanketed in snow in the wintertime where you can spot wolf and bison. There are plenty of bison in this area in the summertime too, something we would soon find out.

I usually don’t take as many pictures during the actual hike, it would take forever to reach our main destination if I did. And especially when we are hiking in a new area you never quite know how long it will take. Sometimes I wish we had more time to stop and take more photos. This time i managed to take a couple of photos right before our bison incident…

W basically grew up with Yellowstone in his backyard and both of us had been living in Alaska for a few years when we embarked on this hike. In the deep forests of Montana and Alaska you are taught to make noise and spaek loudly, so that you do not accidentally surprise a bear. So we did what we have always done, talking loudly, clapping our hands until we rounded this tiny little hill and were greeted by a loud humpf. Before we knew it a huge bison that had been laying down, resting, turned his head towards us started to get up. We slowly walked away but somehow we were now inside a whole herd of bison. I don’t know how we managed to get into this situation. But, to clarify, we felt as if we were inside a herd of bison, but herds a very spread out. We were definitely too close to be comfortable. I closed my eyes and wished that I could stick my head in the ground. In the same manner as we somehow had gotten us into this situation we managed to get out of it. I always view bison as somewhat stupid creatures, that in combination with the fact that they are very large makes them extremely dangerous.

We continued our hike, walking through the valley and previously burned forest. We met a couple of other hikers and they had just been to the campspot we were going to. They told us, just like the previous group had told them, that a large grizzly walks by the camp up on the hill at about 5pm every night.

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We continued walking, through brush and over logs. We took a lunchbreak in the shadow of an old Lodgepole Pine. We checked the map again to see how much farther we had to walk. We checked the GPS and realized we had already passed the campsite and could not understand how that was even possible. We started walking back, probably for a good 30 minutes until both of us were doubting what we had seen on the GPS. It turned out that there was an older campsite on the map in the GPS. We realized that once we took up the paper map and crossed checked. So we started walking back, into the valley again, walking the same path for the third time this day. During this time we also started seeing some lone bisons along the trail. Some of them were hanging out in the forest. I had up until now only viewed bison as creatures that love hanging out in large open spaces, but apparently that is not true. So now we had to be on our toes about bison in the forest too. We crossed small creeks and stepped over large boulders and logs. In some areas the logs looked like pickup sticks, very large pickup sticks.

“A few minutes later W whispers
-There it is, there’s the bear “

We finally arrived and were sitting down at our home for the night. It was beautiful. The mountains in front of us and two hillsides on either side of us. We were also right next to the Lamar River which was raging at this time. i looked at my watch, it was approaching 5pm. I told W that it would have been nice to know on what hillside the other campers saw the bear, on the hillside by us or on the other side of Lamar River. Not more than a few minutes later W whispers - There it is, there’s the bear.

I immediately flew up with one hand on the bear spray and whispering in a frantic tone WHERE WHERE?? But then I realized that the bear actually was pretty far away from us. And she, or he, must have known about our presence. The bear continued along the hillside and you could see that it was on a mission. It payed zero interest to us, as it continued forward before it disappeared behind a hill.

After the bear viewing it was finally time for some food. W, as always, cooks the food and I took care of the fire, and water situation. If there is one good thing that I learned during my time studying in Alaska it is to find springs. Spring water you don’t need to filter, it is mostly clean and ice cold. And since we were on a hillside I quickly found some very active springs. We were watching the mountains and talking about this and that before we started to pack up the food and realized we’d forgotten the rope.When you are backcountry camping in Yellowstone (and many other National Parks in the US, especially in the Rocky Mountains) you have to hang your food up, to prevent bears from getting it. We decided to use one of the tent strings that was strong enough for the food. But we had wanted to hang our packs and clothes up too. Instead we placed them by the food storage area. We changed clothes and put the clothes we used for cooking into the backpacks and then we also put a plastic bag on top of the backapacks. We’d already got our tent set up far away from the food storage area.

Before we knew it we were watching the sunset in the mountains and soon after we went to bed. But what a night. We kept hearing noises all night, it was hard to tease apart if it was the river we heard, the trees or worse a bison or a bear walking around. At one point we herd a loud thump. I layed dead still and whispered did you hear that. W was also wide awake, and he had heard it too. W was convinced that a bear had gotten to our food, I kept thinking that a bison was walking around our campsite and was heading towards our tent. And that is how most of the night continued. At some point we must have fallen asleep completely though because in the morning we woke up by male elk calling for a couple of females. After some well needed coffee and breakfast we were finally ready to hit the trail again.

We packed up and started the hike back. Both of us were already feeling a bit stressed ove the first part of the hike which included all these large herds of bison. We met some new campers who were heading out to the campsite we just left. We told them about the bear and also asked them about the bison. They told us there were many bison covering the whole trail and made it hard to pass. Great. So once we approached that area we started to walk up up and up the hill. In this way we would be able to see where the bison were and maneuver in that way. We trecked through the sage brush that tore our legs up, cause we were of course wearing shorts. Once up the hill we didn’t see a single bison down below.

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Do you want to read more posts about Yellowstone National Park? Click the link below: